US Dollars are readily exchanged here, as are Iraqi dinar. One USD will get you 1400 dinars (dinaro?). You can exchange money on the street with guys who are holding bundles of Iraqi bills, in a shop that has photocopies of money on the window, or face the madding crowd in a bank. The banks have armed guards and some have 50 caliber machine guns on the roof. I’d take a picture, but somehow that small lens always feels like a bulls-eye. Perhaps later. The Iraqi money used to have Saddam’s face on it, but the new money doesn’t. I’m going to try to discreetly find a few Saddam bills, if I can.
This week I had to travel to Kirkuk a couple of times. The first trip was unsuccessful, since our mission was to contact the US Army Major who was in charge of some equipment that had been offloaded at the airport. We went to the wrong gate and tried to get entry. The vehicles parked 100 meters back and I walked up to the barbed wire blocking the gate. Nobody was there, but my torso was tingling, and soon a halftrack with a very big gun arrived to tell us we had to go to the opposite side of the airport. After a few wrong turns and a short drive down a road that looked like it might have ended in a minefield, we arrived at the proper gate. Unfortunately, it was 5:05 PM and the army “goes home”, whatever that means, at 5 PM. Three friendly soldiers from the Air Force guarded the main gate. I talked to them for a few minutes and let them each use my cell phone to call home. I know how to grease the wheels. We had to return to Sulaymaniya without the appropriate contacts.
On the way back, I asked the driver to stop so I could take a picture of the tank that was presented by Saddam to the children of Kirkuk. No shit! Now the children play on it, and it is painted and people decorate it with flowers. After a brief photo op, we carried on back to Sulaymaniya at our usual 140-160 kph.
A gift from Saddam to "The Children of Kirkuk"
(Click on the thumbnail to see the large picture)
The next day was Friday, the Sabbath. I was invited to a fine lunchtime meal in the private Chinese restaurant, (yes, I finally made it!) and it was everything I had heard. I talked about my family (all five of them) and tried to use the chopsticks, much to my host's delight. I was given a container of genuine green tea imported from China. (I'll take it home for Heather!) They found the story of our marriage to be very romantic and promised that if Heather and Genavieve were able to come to Iraq, they would prepare a feast for us.
After lunch, Mr. Yi and I were off to Kirkuk for the second time in two days. This time we had more success and I was able to talk with the Major and get contact information. He was as vague on the processes to get the equipment released as I was, having only recently arrived from the US. I assured him that our concerns for safety matched his concerns, and that I would put a plan together for him that would meet all the requirements. It was a worthwhile trip since having the equipment sitting on the ground at the airport does neither of us any good.
On the way back, we noticed a lot of Kurdish families sitting on the hills in large groups. The driver (Sirwan) told us this was normal on holidays and that many of the groups were weddings. We expressed an interest in taking a few pictures and the next thing you knew, Sirwan had pulled off the road and parked near one of the gatherings. We took a few photos but soon, the father of the bride (I think) came running over and asked us to please come over to the gathering and take more pictures. It was a frenzy of color and activity and we spent 10 minutes shaking hands, taking pictures and socializing with the Kurdish people. What a hoot. It was a real highlight and something I hope to do again. They are amazingly friendly and open people and we felt very welcome. I told Heather that if a couple of Kurds showed up at our wedding I am afraid we would not have been as hospitable. Next time we will. If we see any Kurds in Las Vegas in 2005!
And now it's time for a game. It's called "Where's Mr. Yi?" and it's very easy to play. Most of you readers have never met my friend Mr.. Yi, but see if you can find him in the picture below. You can only have 3 guesses. Stump your spouse or simply use the game to get your mates to supply you with free beer.
I was glad the Kirkuk trips were without any untoward incidents. Kirkuk is nowhere near as secure as Sulymaniya. Here, we have armed police every 50 meters or so. There, we hardly saw any guards.
Our CEO has been away in Kuwait for a week and a half and is expected to return Monday or Tuesday. Wednesday I will have been on contract here for 4 weeks. It’s hard to believe. The Netherlands is only a memory now, a bit fresher in my mind than South Africa, Poland, Sweden, Finland, France, Germany, etc. but it’s surprising how soon things pass. Yesterday I was looking at the card (and the cow!) that the guys gave me when I left Den Haag, and I couldn’t help but reflect on the lives that my consultant colleagues and I have chosen. It’s certainly not for everyone and our families have to be very tolerant to allow us this kind of career. We meet so many people in so many cultures and each stop leaves us with a few friendships that (hopefully) last a lifetime.
My family and I wish you all continued success wherever you are and in whatever you are doing.
Regards,
Steve